Chow: Lobster Pasta At Jeffrey’s Grocery
Combining lobster with pasta is nothing new, but at Jeffrey’s Grocery in the West Village, chef Eric Milley has come up with a dish that gives you a whole lobster without any of the work. CHOW.com contributing editor Pervaiz Shallwani filed the following report.
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At Jeffrey’s Grocery, they have a lobster spaghetti that’s a creative take on a whole lobster without any of the work.
Located on a quiet corner in the West Village, Jeffrey’s was originally launched as a high-end grocery store with an all-day luncheonette and a raw bar.
A year ago, the owners realized the concept wasn’t working. They closed shop for 38 hours, retooled the space and added a full menu that’s cooked entirely using induction burners.
What has emerged is an American bistro with a vibrant crowd and a seafood-heavy menu. The dishes are classic with a slight twist, like a skate wing dressed up with braised oxtail.
Combining lobster with pasta is nothing new. But chef Eric Milley pairs spaghetti with meat from a whole lobster and the subtle flavors of tomato and tarragon.
Eric starts with made lobster stock, tomato confit and two large dollops of cauliflower puree. The puree takes the place of cream because it’s cheaper and healthier. Eric cooks the mix and adds the spaghetti. In the meantime, partially cooked lobster meat is finished in butter.
Eric adds fresh tomato, chili flakes to the spaghetti and tosses the mix until it clings to the noodles. He tops the plate with lobster, sprigs of fresh tarragon and a large Parmesan crisp.
Each bite is comforting, with sweet buttery lobster complemented by occasional punches of robust tomatoes and hints of refreshing tarragon. Ask for it shared, and Eric will send it out on two plates. It’s a good way to cap a meal for two that starts with smooth chicken liver mousse and a side of spicy greens.
Just make sure to find space for one of the entertaining cocktails, like the whiskey-heavy Goodstuff.
Jeffrey’s Grocery is located at 172 Waverly Place at Christopher Street.
For more dining recommendations, visit CHOW.com. Follow Pervaiz Shallwani on Twitter at @Pervaizistan.