Monday, December 22, 2014

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The editors of look at food and drink across New York City's five delicious boroughs.

Chow: Beef Marrow At Corkbuzz Wine Studio

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TWC News: Chow: Beef Marrow At Corkbuzz Wine Studio
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For a primal food experience, head to Corkbuzz Wine Studio in Manhattan, where large portions of rich beef marrow get served in the bone, topped with melted blue cheese. Contributing Editor Liza de Guia filed the following report.

Set in a warm glowing space that feels much like a stylish woman’s living room is CorkBuzz Wine Studio in Union Square. A place that claims to be wine-centric; though, after an evening enjoying wines here, I found their menu to be no afterthought.

Executive Chef Hayan Yi wanted the menu to be adventurous for wine lovers. The crispy sliced pig ears with shishito peppers is a welcome surprise, as is their fried soft shell crab with jalapeno cream. But, hands down, the best dish on the menu is their bone marrow with panko, Bayley Hazen blue cheese and red wine shallot marmalade.

Like some wines, bone marrow can be intimidating. It’s not everyday we find ourselves scooping meat “butter” from a bone cavity. But, the fatty taste and delicate texture will win you over easily.

Twice a week, she pops out fresh bone marrow from split beef bones. Next, the bone marrow gets treated overnight in salted water to draw out any blood or impurities - a technique used to make the color of the marrow more pleasing, not to change the flavor. The day after, the marrow is poached and reset in ice.

When ordered, she layers red wine shallot marmalade into a clean bone, covers it with bone marrow, then crumbles dense Bayley Hazen blue cheese from Vermont on top. Lastly, she adds panko for crunch, then cooks it in the oven until bubbling hot.

When served, don’t think, just devour. Sink your knife into the marrow like butter, and spread it on the special semolina bread with fennel seeds and golden raisins. You’ll enjoy the richness of the marrow, the creamy, nutty complement of the blue cheese, and how the marmalade cuts through all of it with hints of thyme and shallot-y sweetness. Pair it with a nice white wine, all for under $40.

CorkBuzz is located at 13 East 13th Street in Manhattan.

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