A family-run Dominican bakery in Upper Manhattan is making all sorts of bizcocho. Edible Manhattan's Rachel Wharton filed the following report.
Bizcocho means cake to Dominicans, and in our current issue we featured the three milks-soaked version called tres leches from Bizcocho de Colores, a 23-year-old bakery in Inwood run by Daisy Lebron and her family. Lebron spikes her tres leches with rum and tops it with buttercream and strawberry jam, but the most important ingredient is the cake itself.
"It's so soft. It melts in your mouth. You know cake, it's impossible for it to melt in your mouth, but it's just so soft inside, so good," says Bizcocho de Colores General Manager Jonathan Lebron.
In fact, you'd swear this buttery bizcocho has a hint of tropical fruit, but Lebron only shares her top-secret recipe with a few staffers. Think of her as la jefa de bizcocho, or in Spanish, "the cake boss."
"We have a couple of special ingredients also, but if tell you, I have to kill you," jokes Lebron.
Lebron sells her bizcocho plain or layered with fruity fillings and topped with inches of the silky white vanilla icing Dominicans call merengue. But her biggest business is turning them into tricked out party cakes in all colors, shapes and sizes. On Saturdays it's cake chaos as the kitchen prepares up to 80 for birthdays or baby showers. They're so popular, people even pack them on trips.
"Some people actually take the cakes to the Dominican Republic. They take them to Miami. Last week there's was a lady that shipped one to Buffalo. I actually told her to call me to see how the cake got there," says Lebron.
Daisy's first cake was served at home, made from a recipe lent by a friend. Her family ate a lot of bizcocho before she found perfection.
"We used to be the guinea pigs for her. She came out with a beautiful recipe, and here we are today," says Lebron.
To read more about the city's sweet food culture, visit www.ediblemanhattan.com.